Tag Archives: Restaurants

Croatia: seascapes, wine and food

DubrovnikSo, I have been hiding away in the Dalmatian coast of Croatia for the last week – and greatly enjoying the amazing coastal scenery!

Dubrovnik – despite the thousands of tourists – has to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.  The opportunity to reconstruct it after the Serbian bombings of 1991-92, when an estimated 68% of the buildings in the old city were damaged, has been grasped imaginatively and effectively – the walk around the city walls is truly magnificent.

VinesI was hoping to explore some of Croatia’s vineyards and wineries during our stay – but with prices of most of the ‘quality’ wines for sale being between$30 and $50 a bottle, I swiftly changed my mind! To be sure, it is indeed possible to find some reasonable  wines at much less than this, but I cannot imagine who is willing to pay such prices – perhaps there are far too many over-rich tourists!  If Croatia wants to establish itself as a  reputable wine-making country, it needs to start making better value wines!

The food was also, sadly, a bit disapponting  – tasty enough, but we did not manage to find any restaurants that really impressed.Konavoski The best – and reasonably priced – was Konavoski Dvori near Gruda to the south of Dubrovnik.  The restaurant is in a restored watermill, and on a hot August day the swift-flowing river that runs past the dining tables provides a very welcome cool breeze!  Meat is cooked in an iron bell on charcoal – which keeps it succulent and moist.  Other restaurants worth visiting include:

  • Dubrovnik: Restaurant Orhan (Od Tabakarije 1) – situated at the foot of the Lovrjenac tower on the edge of a small bay some 200m away from the walls of the old city. Good seafood salads and grilled meats
  • Trogir: Alka restaurant (Obrov 10) – serving customers in the centre of the old town for 40 years, this restaurant has particularly good tradtional Dalmatian beef pašticada (marinated in vinegar, lemon and rosemary, and then cooked wth carrots, cloves, muscat nuts, red wine and prosciutto)

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Lugano grottos and wines…

Smiley smallThanks to Isabella Rega, I had an opportunity  last week not only to learn much more about the exciting research ongoing at the Università degli Svizzera italiana in the field of ICT4D (NewMinE Lab and webatelier.net), but also to enjoy something of the culinary and vinous traditions of Ticino.

Hence, some additions to my periodic listing of interesting restaurants:

  • Canvetto luganese – this really good small restaurant is owned and managed by the Fundazione Diamante, which provides support and work for people with disabilities, integrating them into a diversity of different enterprises.  Since 2003 it has been recognised by the Osterie d’Italia di Slow-Food, and offers a range of delicious regional foods.  Its handmade pastas and ravioli are particularly good, as was the steak tartare!
  • Grottos – the hillsides around Lugano are replete with small restaurants, originally built around caves (hence the name ‘grottos’), but now offering some excellent freshly grilled meats and local foods in open air surroundings.  I particularly enjoyed dinner at the Grotto Circolo Sociale Montagnola, which had really excellent grilled grilled costine, as well as lunch at the Grotto Ticinese, where we shared risotto, grilled meats and salads, sitting under the trees on an otherwise very hot and humid day!
  • In Lugano itself, La Rosa dei Venti is situated on the lake shore by a small yacht club – a heavy rainstorm forced us inside, but the seafood risotto was good!

Barrell smallAs for wine, Ticino often suffers from rain and dampness in October which has a tendency to cause rot – but sadly not of the noble kind – the Botrytis cineria here in Ticino is far from benevolent! Hence, grape growers have been keen to plant early ripening varieties, most notably Merlot.  In recent years,  these red grapes have also been used to make the white wine Bianco di Merlot, which can have complexity and subtle flavours – when well-vinified they have a fresh acidity that goes really well with the local food.

  • Tenuta Bally & von Teufenstein, with vineyards and winery at Vezia, a short distance from Lugano, produces a good range of interesting wines.  As well as a rich and fruity Bianco di Merlot, their red wines (Cresperino 100% Merlot; Riserva Ernesto 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon) are generally much fuller and with better tannin structure than many of the rather light Merlots that can be found in Ticino.  Their Tre Api Merlot Riserva from the excellent 2007 vintage is made from old vines, and has fine soft tannins with a real richness of flavours – combining redcurrants, blackberries and violets.  They also make a rosati wine (Sarabanda) and a sparkling Spumante di Merlot, as well as a white (La Piana) that combines Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Semillon, and an 100% Chardonnay (La Sfinge)

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Maputo restaurants

Not everyone would automatically think of Mozambique for its culinary excellence – but for those who like fine seafood, Maputo’s restaurants are definitely worth exploring.  Mozambique is a forgiving country, and despite the violent war of independence it still retains certain classic Portuguese traditions, not least the tendency to serve rice and chips with most main courses.  It is also possible to find great Portuguese wines – definitely a step up from most of the South African onesprawns available on the wine lists.  Here are just a few of my favourite places to eat in Maputo:

  • Costa do Sol – on the coast to the north of Maputo – serves fantastic fresh seafood in an art deco atmosphere.  The vinhos verdes go down well with the lobster and prawns!
  • Restaurante Escorpião (Recinto da Feira Popular – Maputo. Tel. 21302180. E-mail: restauranteescorpiao@hotmail.com) – serves typical ‘Portuguese’ cuisine – and has one of the best collections of Portugese wine outside Portugal (try the Borba with one of the meat dishes).
  • Maputo Waterfront restaurante (Av 10 Novembro 74,http://www.paginasamarelas.co.mz/pag/2226032468_PAG_A.html) – serves excellent seafood and meat dishes – try one of the combination dishes, such as chicken and seafood.  As its name suggests, it is right on the waterfront
  • Restaurante 1908 (Av. Eduardo Mondlane,946 – Maputo. Tel. 21424834.) – a sophisticated restaurant in the centre of Maputo, serving Mozambican and Italian food.  As its name suggests it is in a building constructed in 1908!

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Brussels restaurants

Continuing my periodic restaurant commentaries, last week in Brussels provided a great opportunity to listen to advice from friends who live there, and explore hidden away restaurants.  While I am tempted to keep these to myself, I enjoyed them so much that I thought I would share them here in the hope that these excellent restaurants will benefit from additional business.  Just don’t be there when I am!

  • La Quincaillerie – Rue du Page 45, B-1050 Brussels.  As one of the first restaurants to set up in the trendy Chatelain neighbourhood, La Quincaillerie stands out among the many fashion boutiques and purveyors of upmarket knick-knacks. It has an excellent wine list, and particularly good seafood and chicken; I really enjoyed the Tartare de boeuf au parmesan et à la roquette.  To drink, I would recommend the 2005 Gewürztraminer from Louis Sipp à Ribeauvillé in Alsace
  • La Canne en Ville – Rue de la Réforme 22, B-1050 Brussels.  Exceptional!  Try the Duo de coquilles Saint Jacques rôties et filet de sole farci à la mousseline d’écrevisses, beurre fouetté au citron.  And to drink, be adventurous and taste the Bourgogne rosé Marsannay Regis Bouvier 2005.

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Berlin restaurants…

sagrantino-smallWalking through Berlin, I came across a restaurant named after one of my favourite grape varieties (Sagrantino) and apparently serving wines made by one of my favourite producers (Arnaldo Caprai, from Montefalco in Umbria)!  The restaurant is Sagrantino – does anyone know if I would be disappointed going there?

In the meanwhile, four other interesting places to eat in Berlin, each with their own distinctive atmospheres are:

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